06-09-2002, 02:07 PM
Hi all,
I apologize for jumping a touch backwards in this discussion, but I am affraid that Tal's authentication test is doomed to fail.
The round center piece with the writing on it is actually struck in one piece, meaning that the letters protrude from the bottom of a groove that is later filled with enamel. The enamel is then fired, and the piece is polished, leaving smooth, flat enamel, the letters and edges all being smoothed down to the same level.
Electrolytic plating (which is what mints worldwide use commonly) requires that the surfaces to be plated be electrically conductive. Since the piece is struck from one piece of metal, all that is needed is to connect ANY part of the piece to plate to the plating machine. Plating does not adhere to enamel, so it is definitely not a problem to "upgrade" a 3rd class to either a 2nd or 1st class.
Just to keep everybody sweating, all the equipment is readily available :( : for enamel, you just need a small electric oven that would probably set you back about $500, and plating macjhines can readily be procured from about $350 upwards (for those on the forum familiar with Japan (hi Dave!), all the above, plus any type of supplies is available at Tokyu Hands).
So, if you stop and think of it for a second, it is actually relatively easy to replace missing enamel with actual glass enamel, replating is likewise fairly straightforward. The only drawbacks are to find the exact matching colors for both the enamels and the plating, but trial and error should bring any serious would-be faker pretty close to the real thing.
Sorry if I sound disturbing, but I believe that there is a serious need for all serious collectors to have at least a minimum level of understanding of the manufacturing process, and its potential pitfalls.
Marc
I apologize for jumping a touch backwards in this discussion, but I am affraid that Tal's authentication test is doomed to fail.
The round center piece with the writing on it is actually struck in one piece, meaning that the letters protrude from the bottom of a groove that is later filled with enamel. The enamel is then fired, and the piece is polished, leaving smooth, flat enamel, the letters and edges all being smoothed down to the same level.
Electrolytic plating (which is what mints worldwide use commonly) requires that the surfaces to be plated be electrically conductive. Since the piece is struck from one piece of metal, all that is needed is to connect ANY part of the piece to plate to the plating machine. Plating does not adhere to enamel, so it is definitely not a problem to "upgrade" a 3rd class to either a 2nd or 1st class.
Just to keep everybody sweating, all the equipment is readily available :( : for enamel, you just need a small electric oven that would probably set you back about $500, and plating macjhines can readily be procured from about $350 upwards (for those on the forum familiar with Japan (hi Dave!), all the above, plus any type of supplies is available at Tokyu Hands).
So, if you stop and think of it for a second, it is actually relatively easy to replace missing enamel with actual glass enamel, replating is likewise fairly straightforward. The only drawbacks are to find the exact matching colors for both the enamels and the plating, but trial and error should bring any serious would-be faker pretty close to the real thing.
Sorry if I sound disturbing, but I believe that there is a serious need for all serious collectors to have at least a minimum level of understanding of the manufacturing process, and its potential pitfalls.
Marc
